Ready, set, GO! Teaching a "start button" behavior for cooperative nail trims.
A primary component of all cooperative care training is teaching the animal a way to provide their consent for the handling you are attempting to do. The care we are providing is not cooperative unless the animal tells us “OK, I am ready. You can start.”
“Start button” behaviors.
I like to teach my dog to “opt in” or choose to participate in their husbandry care using a “start button” behavior.
This is a behavior that the dog voluntarily performs as a way to communicate to the handler that they are ready.
When the dog starts the behavior, this is the traffic light changing to green - telling us we can proceed. On the flip side, if the dog stops the behavior, this is the traffic light changing to red, telling us that we need to stop - no questions asked.
I choose to utilize various “stationing” behaviors as a way for my dog to opt-in to the procedure, as well as arranging my dog in the best position for me to ensure they are comfortable, and to best access them in order to complete the task.
The stationing behaviors I routinely teach are:
a chin rest,
lateral recumbency,
middle or “penguin” position.
Chin rest
A chin rest is where we teach the dog to “rest” their chin on a specific target. The target might be your hand, your lap, a towel, pillow, or the seat of a chair. The benefit of this station is that it can be utilized while your dog is standing up or lying down, depending on what you are trying to accomplish. I utilize this station for general physical examinations including temperature taking, ear and eye examinations, and for giving injections.
Lateral Recumbency
This is where the dog lies flat on their side with their head down on the ground. The benefit of this position is that you are able to access to the dog’s legs and will be able to manipulate their joints without asking them to shift their weight (important for seniors or dogs with physical disabilities.) I utilize this station for nail trimming, physical therapy/passive range of motion exercises, grooming, and more.
“Middle” or “penguin.”
This position is where the dog stands in between your legs, facing in the same direction as you. I like this position because my legs act as a barrier, which allows someone to examine or handle my dog’s hind end with a bit more protection. I utilize this position for hind end examinations, temperature taking, blood collection, and injections.
to cue, or not to cue.
While I add a verbal cue or hand signal to almost every new behavior I teach my dog, I rarely ask my dog to perform his station when it is being used for cooperative care purposes.
The reason for this, is that I don’t want to ask my dog if he is ready to go; I want him to communicate with me that he is ready, willing, and able to start the training game.
My own dog is very eager to participate in training, no matter what we’re doing, and may enter into his stationing position when cued just because he really wants a chance to earn treats. I want to ensure that he is emotionally ready to participate in husbandry exercises, so I always let him initiate this.
By setting up for a stationing behavior (ex. placing a tea towel in my lap that my dog will target his chin to), I am communicating to my dog that the opportunity to do cooperative care training is available, but it is always his choice to participate or not.
what means “no,” and what means “go?”
In order for our dogs to trust us to perform husbandry procedures, they need to feel safe and know what to expect. That’s why its important to establish a set of rules surrounding their consent, and to never break these rules (no matter what!)
Here are my basic rules of cooperative care that I will always abide by:
I do not “start” (move, reach, touch, start the procedure, etc.) until my dog says “go.” The dog can do so by initiating a pre-trained start-button behavior/station.
The moment my dog moves out of their station/stops their start button behavior I stop what I am doing.
In order to respect these rules, your dog needs to understand what they need to do to communicate “go” and how to say “no.” After I have trained my dog to perform the stationing behavior for 3-5 seconds, I will start to introduce the rules of consent.
Start by lifting one of your hands up slightly. If your dog remains in their station (ex. head down on your lap), mark and reward them.
If your dog moves out of their station (ex. head comes up off of your lap), withdraw your hand (stop the action.)
Repeat until the dog is consistently holding the station when you move your hand.
By teaching your dog a simple way to say “no” and make you stop your handling, the dog learns that they do not have to escalate their behavior to growling, snarling, or snapping in order to make a procedure stop.
If you break these rules, and continue a procedure when the dog has withdrawn their consent, you will teach the dog that these rules are not reliable, therefore hold no meaning to the dog.
The rules of consent will only work if you follow the rules by waiting for the dog to provide consent, and respecting them when they withdraw it - no matter what!
What if I have to get the procedure done?
Sometimes we do not have the luxury of postponing a procedure - these are what I call “needs” - this task needs to be completed or else it will negatively affect my dog’s health - whereas other procedures, such as nail trimming or teeth brushing could be classified as “wants” - I want to get this done, but no harm will come to my dog if we do not complete this task today.
If I am performing a task that needs to be done, and I am unsure if my dog will consent to the procedure, I am not going to ask him for his consent. After all, if he says no, I will not be able to respect that no, and risk damaging the trust my dog has built in me.
For situations where my dog truly does not have a choice because it is in his best interest to complete the procedure, I will not ask/wait for his consent.
I will do my best to make the procedure as low stress as possible by using minimal restraint, utilizing high value treats, or even chemical restraint, such as sedation.
Stationing behaviors are a great way to teach your dog a way to “opt in” to husbandry procedures, such as nail trims, while also providing them with a clear, low stress way to let you know when they need you to pause or stop.
Make sure you’re following me on Instagram, as I am going to be demonstrating the steps to teach your dog a lateral recumbency start button behavior for nail trimming!
In next week’s blog, I’m going to talk about how to teach your dog to be comfortable with nail trimming tools, such as clippers, files, or even a nail grinder!
Stay tuned for the rest of this cooperative nail trimming series!
Stay awesome.
Vanessa
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Vanessa Charbonneau, is the author of Dog Care for Puppies: A guide to Feeding, Playing, Grooming and Behavior. She owns Sit Pretty Behavior & Training, employing force-free training techniques, and specializing in working with fearful, aggressive, and reactive dogs. Charbonneau lives in Prince George, BC with her husband, two daughters, and one dog.